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Thoughts on the 835 Bassamp?
#11
I’ve got this amp back together, so it is time to provide some observations on the circuit on the circuit and other stuff. There have been a few surprises.

I started working on the preamp a few weeks ago. See before and after pictures. I basically shotgunned the circuit board, replacing all caps and resistors. I also cleaned and lubricated the pots. As near as I can tell, this was the first time the preamp had every seen any service. There were many bad resistors, and one dead tube (presumably related to the bad resisters).

During this process, I noticed that this amp is a bit odd, at least for an Ampeg. It is a two channel amp, with the only real difference between the channels being the input impedance. I did note that there are no grid stoppers on the input tube, which is something that I find odd, and am mildly inclined to change. There are two preamp tubes, a 6SL7 and a 6SN7. The 6SN7 is not present in the 835N schematic available on this site, so the obvious question is: why is it there? I was quite surprised to discover it wired as a dc-coupled cathode follower used to drive the tone stack. This is not very Ampeg, at all. In fact, the two channel cathode-driven tone stack configuration (see my schematic here) is almost identical to an early tweed Fender Bassman, such as the 5e6 (different tubes, though). Of course, the tone stack is Bandaxall, so that much remains true to Ampeg. I put the tone stack into Duncan’s Tone Stack Calculator, and it shows a pretty significant trough in the upper bass range, ranging from about 100-300hz, depending on bass knob selection. Kinda odd, considering it’s a bass amp. Wink

In any event, having identified the workings of the preamp, I decided that I needed to go back and look at the phase inverter. I had originally assumed that it was a standard long-tailed PI. But given that cathode followers are typically followed by a gain stage, I expected to find the 6SL7 in the power chassis configured as a gain stage followed by a Cathodyne PI, like in the Bassman. What I found was something more complex.

The phase inverter is pretty similar to that found in the 835N, although the feedback mechanism is different. It’s actually a “closed loop” PI, which you can read about here, albeit with a higher parts count (not quite sure why they did that). There were issues with this stage. It turned out the negative feedback resistor from the output jack had drifted badly, so the cathode of the first half of the triode was dumping current on the speaker/output transformer.

In the closed loop PI the grid of the second triode is fed through a voltage splitter tied to the two plates. The idea is that part of the signal sent to the first power tube is mirrored to the grid of the triode, which is amplified (and inverted), and sent to the other power tube. The linkage back to the grid through the voltage splitter is supposed to provide automatic balancing, as any growth in the second signal will cancel out part of the input signal. As can be seen in the article linked above, the voltage splitter typically utilizes a 510k and a 470k resistor, which this amp did. But the 510k had drifted badly, and so things weren’t working well at all. Just for amusement, I created a spice model of the PI (LTSpice model here), and sure enough, given the correct values the PI provides remarkable balance to the power tubes, excellent headroom, and about 10x in voltage gain, which eliminates the need for a separate gain stage after the cathode follower.

The PI is working well. Here is a reading at the two power tube grids, using my scope.

OK. So I have moved on to (I) verifying that the speaker actually works (it does); cleaning up the cabinet (it is cleaner but still looks like a battle-scarred warrior); and reassembling. Oh, I also put a new handle on it. In a way, I am done, and it looks like this (front and back).

That said, I’m not super happy with where things stand. First, I am not a bass player and don’t have a bass. This amp was supposed to be the bass amp for the music room I am setting up with the family, but a bass is a future purchase. I grabbed a guitar (Parker Fly), and it works fine, but is kind of sterile, and really much brighter than I anticipated. It could be the circuit itself; it could be that the speaker needs to loosen up. It does have a microphonic tube (most likely the 6SN7 that I just kind of selected at random and stuck in there). But I supposed I will rummage through my tube stash and see if swapping out the preamp tubes doesn’t make the amp more lovable. Other suggestions are welcome.

[Just a quick note: I reviewed the schematic that is posted above, and I see at least one thing that I think is incorrect. The voltage divider that connects the two channels is showing as having resistor values 270k and 100k, but my memory is telling me that those resistors have equal value. I just can't remember if they are both 100k or 270k. Tongue I'll have to open the amp up and check.]


(12-15-2017, 09:28 PM)Hangman Wrote: If you're interested in writing a blog post about your restoration process for this site, let me know.

Thanks, I'll consider it. Mostly it's easier for me to just report things as I go, but I don't know who will have the patients to read all the way through my rather disjoint posts.
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#12
OK. I've replaced all the triodes with stronger tubes and I can say definitively that the "thinness" issue is gone. Sounds like an amplifier. But....

It's got a rattle that I am pretty much convinced is voice coil rub. Soooooo, I need to do something about the speaker. I'll have to tear the amp apart again and inspect the speaker carefully (something I should have done while it was apart, duh!). Maybe I'll start watching those youtube videos on how to recone a speaker. Reconing isn't that expensive, but the shipping would be a big hit. Cheaper to buy a replacement. But this funky Jensen ceramic speaker with the alnico sticker is part of the amp's charm. Wink Can anyone recommend a source for a recone kit for a C15N, or a competent recone professional in the Washington DC area?

The other thing is that, even though the amp is no longer thin sounding, it is still very bright. I've modeled the amp and it really is just voiced that way. Less bass, more treble. I was expecting this amp to have a tone stack similar to the B15N, but the values are completely different. I'm starting to consider "modding" the amp to insert the B15N tone stack. I'm not sure that qualifies as a "mod", given that the original circuit of this amp isn't documented anywhere. Tongue
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#13
I've pulled the speaker out of the amp, and it's really in pretty good shape. Here is the front and back. I haven't been able to identify any rubbing of the voice coil. There are some relatively small tears in the surround. One is not insignificant. But most are pretty small. Of course, there is a lot of dust and crap.

So, my plan at this point is not to re-cone, but to repair. Basically, my plan is to follow this guide, which seems to be a good match for what I have. I'll patch up the holes with silicone gasket sealer and then treat the surround with contact cement. I'll also (first) make an attempt to clean the dust out of it as best I can. Then I will remount and see where things stand.
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#14
OK. So that didn't work. Tongue I had a great time and was feeling very proud of myself. I patched up all the holes and treated the edge with contact cement. I was looking forward to remounting the speaker and reaping the benefits of my labors. But then I noticed this. Put something of a damper on my mood. Sigh.

I really don't know what happened. At first I suspected fould play, but all of my family members deny touching my Precious Thing. I guess what happened is that the contact cement shrank as it dried, and the cone was just that fragile. In any event, the plan to repair is out the window.

I have been unable to locate a C12N recone kit, let alone choosing one that I am happy with. I considered sending it off to Weber (or alternative) to be reconed. If I sent it off to weber, they would have just rebuilt it using 15F150 parts. I couldn't think of any reason why using the old frame/magnet would be better that just ordering a 15F150, and it would have cost as much or more (shipping) and taken way longer. So I ordered a 15F150. I'll put the current speaker away and recone it later. Maybe. At this point we will wait for the new speaker.
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#15
Reading your work is interesting. I am not doing any adjustments except the most basic because of my limited understanding of consequences for mods.

I have my GuitarAmp back on the bench. I ordered a replacement P12Q speaker (12A125-A) from Ted Weber. I should have that sometime next week. I was inspecting the old Jensen and found that the paper was pretty fragile along the apron. I also did the contact cement reinforcement that Uncle Doug demonstrates on his YouTube site. But I am looking forward to hooking up the Weber.

Larry
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#16
In spite of the much-advertised "cyclone bomb" (or whatever the TV meteorologists were calling the weather yesterday), I got a box. I'm very much excited about the box itself, as I really needed a box to send the Jensen off to be reconed. But I will worry about that later.

In the box was my new weber speaker. I went ahead and installed it. Pic here, here, and here. Beyond that, I don't have much to say about it at this point. I got it all put together around 11 pm, which was far too late to really fire it up. It sounded fine at low volumes. Better, actually. But I'll have to report back on that after it breaks in, which will likely take a while.

I admit that I was distinctly unimpressed with the optics of the thing. I guess that, if I was selling vintage speaker replacements, would make an attempt to make them look a bit more like the Jensen's that they are replacing. Paint them blue, for example. But the real issue is the sticker. Fist, it had a big Weber sticker on the magnet (not very attractive) that ended up upside down because of the speaker orientation in this amp. That bugged me a bit, but then I realized they had send another sticker along with the amp, presumably to resolve exactly that issue. Yay! But the new sticker (visible in the pics) is far from unassuming Jensen sticker on the original. Oh, well. It's a good speaker. Smile

I guess my longer-term plan is to build an extension cab for this amp and put the weber in that (putting the reconed original back in the amp). But building a cab will have to wait for warmer weather.
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#17
I thought I would circle back and bring this thread to a close. After several weeks of delay and distraction, I had some friends over for a music session yesterday, and finally heard a bass through the 835.

The bass itself was a J-P hybrid, as are many low-dollar basses these days. When the evening began, about the began, about all I could say was the the amp effectively played bass frequencies. A bunch of walking bass lines based on standard blues progressions. It was fine. To this end, my thought was "OK, if my son has a friend over from the school jazz band, he'll be able to play." But I finally got the bass player to shift to the bridge pickup and roll the tone up, and it was a lot more fun. It's a pretty bright amp, and when when he started slapping the strings it really popped. I liked that a lot. Smile I didn't really expect that in an amp of this vintage, so there you go.

One further comment: when I was setting things up prior to their arrival, I was going from amp to amp (three amps: 835, M15, and a home-brew) with a guitar to make sure they were all working and there were going to be no surprises. I was really surprised how much richer the 835 sounded as compare to the M15. Not sure why. I strongly suspect that it's a speaker thing: the M15 still has the original Jensen in it - I forget the model but it's one of the one's with the really small ceramic magnet. Definitely not the same as a C15N. Both amps have great glass and have been serviced to spec, so I think that the speaker is a major player in the tonal difference. Of course, the M15 has tremolo, and that was popular. Smile

So, my final thought is that this is a pretty cool amp. I put a lot of work into bringing it back to life, but it seems like it was worth it.
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